Amy Pataki, April 12, 2019

“When it comes to Shozan’s hot snacks […] all are winners.”

“These simple dishes — even shrimp and vegetable tempura ($8.50) with newfangled yogurt-and-avocado dipping sauce. There are tiny smelts stuffed with roe and grilled ($5.50). A squeeze of lemon takes them from good to great.”

“Chicken yakitori ($6.50) is perfection, the glazed meat interlaced with smoky green onions. Pork tonkatsu ($8.75) is all crunch and juice. Sake braised beef short ribs ($25) fall off the bone into squash purée underneath.”